Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a global network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city is little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always shaped its heart: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their children are reluctant to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to discover these stories and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
